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Searching for big daddy of beers? Go to the dark side! PDF Print E-mail
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Written by Knight Ridder   
Wednesday, 03 May 2006

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For years, stout seemed more like work than enjoyment to me.
I was always put off by the blackish-brown color, the heavy mouth feel of this style of beer — originally, as the strongest of Britain’s once-popular porters, known as stout porter.
When I visited Ulster and the Irish Republic in 1971, stouts were served at room temperature; years later, when I tried them again in Africa, they were served even warmer.
Finally, after graduating from German lagers to Belgian ales, and then to ever-weightier brews, I felt I was ready to try stout again.
It took a while. For me, the style was an acquired taste. Now, however, when I find a good one, it’s worth all the effort.
Far too many people know just one stout — Guinness. This is not to say that this Irish brew (or the Canadian version we get) is not an experience to savor, but there are so many adventurous stouts on the shelves of upscale markets these days that you shouldn’t limit yourself.
Among the more widely available options are Samuel Smith’s Oatmeal Stout and Rogue Shakespeare Stout, both worthy choices.
Smith’s has deep aromas and plenty of sweet fruit flavors — apples and figs — nicely balanced with roasted, grainy, chocolate notes.
As mentioned in a recent review, Rogue Shakespeare is simply delicious, not as heavy as it looks, with a sweet, deep aroma, rewardingly substantial mouth feel and nicely balanced flavors — coffee, chocolate, a casual embrace of caramel.
A little harder to find is a “sweet stout” from Colorado’s Left Hand Brewing Co. called Milk Stout. The “milk” refers to lactose, or milk sugar, which adds balance and body with about one-tenth the sweetness of sucrose, the brewery says. Milk Stout pours a dark perked-coffee brown, with a worthwhile aroma of powdered chocolate. It can be consumed chilled, but the warmer it gets, the more discernible the roasted-malt favors, the kiss of chocolate and a slightly charred mocha aftertaste.

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