A man with a creased face and white hair pulled back in a ponytail winked and cracked a tiny smile.

"To all the alcoholics in the audience, I'm going to sing another song," he said while strumming his guitar amidst erupting squeals.

There's a beer bash here in Dublin, and everyone's invited. But you best be prepared.

Dublin's pubs are playgrounds for big people. Swaying, staggering, swaggering grown-ups start early and end late every day of the week.

You won't find Spain's moderation or France's prim and proper composure anywhere. It's about good ol' drunken debauchery in down-and-dirty Dublin.

The birthplace of Guinness isn't just about drinking, despite popular belief. Dancing and singing in unison in pubs, clubs and in the streets are also important ingredients to the city's vibe. And they want you to join the fun.

Sipping a creamy Guinness, squished between a gold-lettered stout mirror and frenzied women wearing cat ears, I realized my Irish blood wasn't thick enough to allow me to keep up with the locals.

A man eyeing my pint asked if I liked Guinness. "Not really," I said. "But I feel like that's what I should be drinking."

"Everyone does," he said.

Guinness here isn't just a beer -- it's a national icon. Billboards and signs line the streets; shops overflow with memorabilia. It's always on tap. But if the unadorned flavor of this stout doesn't do it for you, try one of the city's many Guinness cocktails. Bartenders mix it with black currant cordial, champagne or cider. If beer just won't work, try a tipple of Irish whiskey or a bit of Baileys Irish Cream.

To better understand the obsession, there's a seven-story, shrine of a storehouse (http://www.guinness-storehouse.com ) filled with historical brewing facts. The core of the building is a glass structure that's shaped like a pint. If filled, it could hold some 14 million pints. The highlight of a visit is a free drink in a sky bar that has a 360 degree-view.

My last night, not able to swallow another drop, I left my pint of the dark chocolate-colored brew and wandered out of the packed pub as the winking, white-haired man strummed away, still smiling. Although the game is open, Dubliners are in a league of their own.

If you have the luck of the Irish or are just confident you can play with the big leaguers -- at least for one night, here are some suggestions:

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WHERE TO GO: If you have one night, head to the Temple Bar area, the hub of the city's nightlife. Folk songs pour out of classic, no-frill bars decorated with dark wood and dainty dangling flowers. Drunken strangers put their arms around you and whisk you toward the dance floor away as drinks slosh about. Crowds gather to watch musicians, dancers and drunks entertain on the cobble-stoned streets. Break-dancing, shirt-ripping, freestyle rapping and drunken cheerleading ensue. Traditional live performances can be found inside many pubs:

• Oliver St. John Gogarty's (Fleet Street): A large bar decorated with hanging bicycles and signs that say things like "Be Good or Be Gone." Here you can either dance or be danced on. The bar has traditional Irish music, but revelers also shout along to songs like "Born in the USA."
  
• Temple Bar (Temple Lane): This cozy bar offers a hint of sophistication. Imagine hiding out from the rain in leather chairs and listening to Irishmen strum guitars. Whiskey with hot water, brown sugar and cloves, or Irish coffee with whiskey, brown sugar, and fresh cream will linger on the lips.
  
• Quays Bar (Temple Square): It took two tries to get into this bar because it fills up quickly. Youll find lively, folksy music and a jolly, rowdy crowd that likes to rub beer bellies instead of elbows.

• Hogan's (South Great George's Street): Here you'll find a simply decorated establishment packed with locals who are avoiding the tourists. If you blow your cover, however, call 'em big daddy, order another round, and things shouldn't get too out of hand.
  
• Whelan's (Wexford Street): While this gritty Rock & Roll joint that has live performances (http://www.whelanslive.com ) isn't the classiest of establishments, it's a change of pace from touristy Temple Bar. Watch out for the beastly guy at the back of the bar. He's not real, so don't apologize for bumping into him. People will look at you like you're drunk.
  
• Old Stand (Wicklow Street): Lined with old paintings and photos, this Victorian-style pub that's popular with rugby enthusiasts (http://www.theoldstandpub.com ) has been in the same spot for more than 300 years. James Joyce wrote a chapter of the famous "Ulysses" in this unpretentious place. It's where to go if you are looking to chill and chug a porter among sarcastic, easygoing Dubliners.

• O'Neill's (Suffolk Street): This multistory, classy pub was a hangout for writers and also has been around hundreds of years. Decorated with dark wood, chandeliers and green leather benches, it's full of welcoming alcoves and character. Sports fans can kick back and watch games here.

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asap contributor Ananda Shorey is a former AP reporter living in Spain.

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