|
Unspoiled lands of Waipio, Hawaii |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Written by Knight Ridder
|
|
Wednesday, 14 June 2006 |
|
|
|
|
Waipio Valley is the story of modern Hawaii in reverse.
While the islands’ population explodes elsewhere, the number of people in Waipio Valley has gone from 5,000 in the 18th century to 400 just after World War I to about 40 today.
While hotels have sprouted like tropical mushrooms around Hawaii, the only two lodgings in Waipio Valley have closed in recent years.
While even small Hawaiian towns now boast deluxe restaurants, a local, when asked for a top-notch place to eat, responded, “try Waimea,” a half-hour away.
All of which is fine with many of the people who love Waipio Valley, one of the last largely unmodernized spots left in the Hawaiian islands.
Waipio. The Valley of the Three Kings. The Land of the Curving Water. Onetime playground and later battleground of King Kamehameha the Great. Sheltered by cliffs that rise up to 2,000 feet from the sea.
Most visitors to the Big Island don’t make it to Waipio Valley, and most of those who do are content to stand at Waipio Lookout and enjoy the panoramic view of the valley’s treetops.
But those who set aside at least a couple of hours to make their way down the steep road into the valley will be rewarded.
Visitors see a beautiful, depopulated place where wild horses wander dirt roads, hippie carpenters fashion tables by creeks, and mountain-apple pink blossoms and red double hibiscus plants spill out onto the narrow lanes. Frequent rains splash the lotus ponds and fuel the 1,200-foot Hiilawe waterfall.
The valley’s beach often has rough waves, making it good for strollers and the most capable surfers, but uninviting to all but the strongest swimmers.
During the winter, humpback whales cross the ocean just beyond the valley’s opening to the sea.
About 95 percent of the valley is owned by either the Bishop Estate or the Kamehameha Schools, both dedicated to preserving it in its undeveloped form. Swaths of land, including the beach, are off-limits to commercial vehicles.
There are five ways to see the valley. But beware your choice. A popular local saying about the road is “Feels like one mile down and 10 miles up.”
You can drive down the steep, narrow, winding road, with a 25 percent grade in some spots. Once in the valley, you’ll need to cross rain-swollen creeks. There’s a reason Waipio Valley is on the same Big Island no-no list for rental cars as the Saddle Road and the road to South Point. Don’t even think about it unless you have a four-wheel drive vehicle with a lot of underside clearance.
You can walk into the valley. If the hike down doesn’t blow out your knees, the slog back in the heat and humidity will be the cardio workout of a lifetime.
Otherwise, it’s one of three tours: by horse, by traditional horse-drawn wagon or by van.
INFORMATION TO GO
GETTING THERE
From Kona on the Big Island, it’s about a 90-minute drive to Waipio Valley Lookout. Hilo is about 70 minutes from the valley.
HANG YOUR HAT
Waipio Wayside Inn, a five-room bed & breakfast with rates from $99 to $180 per night, plus tax, including a deluxe continental breakfast. Hwy. 240, Honokaa, (800) 833-8849 or www.waipiowayside.com.
TOURING THE VALLEY
I took Waipio Valley Shuttle.
The two-hour van tour costs $45 for adults and $20 for children under 11. Tours run Monday through Saturday at 9 a.m., 11 a.m., 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. Reservations are recommended. www.waipiovalleytour.com or (808) 775-7121. Trips leave from the nearby village of Kukuihaele.
Other options include Waipio Valley Wagon Tours, at $45 for adults and $22.50 for children, www.waipiovalleywagontours.com or (808) 775-9518. Horseback trips are available through Waipio Naalapa Trail rides at $85 per person. www.naalapastables.com/waipio.html or (808) 775-0419
TIP
None of the tour companies offer excursions on Sunday, to give locals a day without groups of tourists.
GOOD EATS
Tex Drive-In. Offers hamburgers and other basic American food, but the real draw here is the top-notch malasadas, a kind of Portuguese doughnut. 45-690 Pakalana St., Honokaa. (808) 775-0598 or www.texdrivein.com.
JUST ASK THEM
Big Island Visitors Bureau, (808) 961-5797 or www.bigisland.org.
| Only registered users can write comments.
Please login or register. |
|
|  | "Humankind cannot gain anything without first giving something in return. To obtain, something of equal value must be lost. That is Alchemy's first law of Equivalent Exchange. In those days, we really believed that to be the world's one, and only truth." | |
|  | We're not that bright, even though in our own little world, we're geniuses. We like 80s hair bands and one-hit wonders, but among us we have respectable tastes, too. Metallica, Iron Maiden, U2. Pursuit of all things trivial is a lifestyle, not just a game. We like some sports, love other sports, and can find something to say about anything. We watch TV and movies and we've read a book or two, even a few classics (Yes, Classic Comics count!)
We call it insight, you call it what you will. | |
|  | Felix Wong is an outdoor enthusiast living in Fort Collins. A mechanical engineer by day, he is especially passionate about bicycling, running, and backpacking. | |
|  | Hola Amigos! I'm Sandra. I like to believe that people are 70 percent good and 30 percent dumb. I'm stickin to that story. Reading this blog might make you want to be good, but probably just dumb. | |
|  | Donovan Henderson is editor of NEXTnc. | |
|  | Here at Nextnc we have some characters. Get a sneak peak behind the curtain and find out what amusing antics our staffers get themselves into on a weekly basis. | |
|  | What is up FoCo?
I am a recent college graduate of Minnesota State University Moorhead. After recieving my B.A. in English and Mass Communications this past August I moved down to Colorado.
I enjoy long walks on the beach, candlelight dinners, and heavy metal. My hobbies include reading and writing, music, movies, and getting drunk. Some of my favorite contemporary authors include Bret Easton Ellis, Chuck Palahniuk, and Kurt Vonnegut. My top movies are anything directed by Kubrick. I enjoy listening to anything that rocks.
Right now I am just trying to get to know Colorado and FoCo better. Mostly in order to find the best drink specials on each day that ends in Y. So if you know where I can get a cheap drunk on, let me know!
--Drew | |
|  | Life's little morsels of inspiration, observation and encouragement seen through the eyes of the Nextnc reporter.
| |
|  | Ms. Giles currently lives in Colorado where she stars in her own private reality show. She writes aphoristic accounts of her life, taken completely out of context, and embellished with characters and situations disguised to resemble something close to interesting. | |
|  | over and out | |
| | My name is Michelle Turley and I'm 28 years old. I live in Severance with my hubbie, Brandon. We have 2 dogs and a cat. We enjoy camping, four-wheeling, and just being in the mountains. I like to cook, clean (go figure), flea market, and play poker. I have so much to say about poker... | |
|
|
